We bought the Airstream with the intention to take advantage of "America's Best Idea" and visit as many national parks as we can. Six months into ownership, after a few upgrades, repairs, and trips to allow us to learn our way around this lifestyle, we headed out for our first national park voyage.
We did our research and made as many plans as we could. The most desired campgrounds in Joshua Tree are first-come/first-served, and because the park is very popular in the springtime and it's spring break, we were worried about finding a good spot. For that reason, we woke up at four o'clock on Sunday morning, were on the road by five, and arrived at the Cottonwood Visitor Center shortly after nine o'clock. There we filled up our water tank at Cottonwood Springs Campground, paid our $20 park fee (good for seven days), and headed up the hill towards the Joshua trees.
The park is split into two deserts--the lower Colorado (which is bleak and bland) and the higher Mohave (which is where the Joshua trees and big rocks are). Unless you have never seen a desert before, you may not be impressed when you first enter the park from the south. To us, it was just like home. There were plenty of spots in Cottonwood Springs Campground, but we decided to take our chances and drive 35 miles to the center of the park and try for a spot at Belle, Jumbo Rocks, or Ryan. We were glad we did.
We arrived at Belle (our first choice) about forty-five minutes later, and the sign said it was full. It was just after 10 am, so we were not shy about asking folks if they were leaving that day. Most said no, but one said he was. He added that his friends were also leaving that day and their site would be better for our rig. So we pulled over out of the way and waited for two hours until they gathered their things and left. In the meantime, I filled out our ticket, posted it under theirs, and made sure that everyone else who drove by and asked if they were leaving just kept moving. Once we got set up, we were very happy with our good fortune. Early bird gets the worm, they say, and we had a sprawling site with nearly complete privacy. Score.

We lunched and relaxed while the sun was high, and then we headed out to explore. We went to Hidden Valley and hiked the Barker Dam trail. I thought there would be more water, but maybe this is the dry season. It was still very pretty. It was our first look at the Joshua trees up close and the massive boulders all around this area. The hike was very enjoyable.
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| The weather has to be just right for Joshua trees to bloom. The last bloom was in 2013. |
On the way back to camp, we stopped at the roadside attraction called Skull Rock. It's aptly named, no?
This place was a hit with the kids. And Brian and I loved it, too. We'd never seen anything like it. Boulders and boulders and boulders you could climb on forever. This white tank granite is very rough, so it's easy to get traction and walk or climb. The kids would play there forever if they could!
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| These sediment lines were incredible. They go on and on, maybe for miles. |
We got back to camp in the late afternoon. We relaxed a bit before getting dinner ready, and the kids made friends with this camper from Alaska named Zolton. I think that was his name. Is that the genie in Big? It was something like that.
After dinner, we played cornhole, watched the sun set, and then enjoyed a campfire under a sky abundant with stars. The skies are so dark; the moon was only half full but it lit up the campground so much that you didn't need a flashlight to walk around.
We woke up on Monday and had breakfast outside before heading out on a four-mile hike.
We hiked to the Lost Horse Mine which is down towards Keys View. The geology of this park changes so drastically, and those rocks were much darker in color down there. I suppose I could have read up on why, but it was fine with us to just make a note of it. Anyway, the legend is that Johnny Lang went off into the desert to find his lost horse. We don't know if he found him, but he did find gold and they set up a gold mine in the 1890s. So we went to find it.
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| When we started seeing rusty equipment, we knew we were close. |
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| It was a long and winding trail over rolling hills with a snow-capped mountain in the distance. |
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| "I'm hungry!" |
After our hike, we drove up to Keys View for sweeping views of the Coachella Valley, Palm Springs, and the San Andreas Fault. What?! No one said we were this close to that!
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| The San Andreas Fault line runs into Brian's right elbow, if you're curious. |
When we got back to camp, we had quite a surprise. Joshua Tree is a rock climber's paradise, and a group of three climbers were there to entertain us that afternoon. They were very fun and friendly. They were visiting from the Bay Area and practicing for a trip to Yosemite later in the season. The rock at our campsite is the perfect place to practice slab climbing so that they "don't kill ourselves at Yosemite." Practice all you want, we said!
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| The climbers inspire. |
After the heat of the day was over, we ventured over to the neighboring campground where the trailhead to Arch Rock is located. It isn't exactly Arches National Park, but it was still a cool area for the kids to climb. They really loved doing that.
After sunset yet before our campfire that night, they tried their hand at the climbers' passes. They didn't get as far.
Tuesday morning, we drove north to Twentynine Palms to do the 49 Palms Oasis hike. We stopped at the Oasis Visitors Center on the north end of the park and picked up those Junior Ranger books for the kids to work on. Those things are neat! We all learned a lot more about the park, the plants, and the animals. Plus, the kids had something to work on when it was really sunny in the middle of the day. As you've probably figured out, we did things in the morning and late afternoon. Though the temperatures were in the 70s and the heat wasn't brutal at all, the sun is relentless and there is pretty much no shade out there.
But, back to our hike at 49 Palms Oasis. As we began our hike, a rescue crew was bringing back a hiker who had spent the night out there. I assured the crew that we had plenty of water when they asked. I don't know what that guy did. The trail was well-marked and only three miles round-trip. He must have gone too late and it got dark or he wandered off the trail. Well, I'm glad he was found safe and sound.
I had it in my head that the hike would be downhill at first, but we climbed pretty high and then descended pretty low. So both ways had a hike up and a hike down.
Our first views of the oasis were exciting. So strange to see that big patch of green in the middle of the desolate desert.
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| We were celebrating the shade! |
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| These beautiful fan palms need a trim badly. |
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| We think that's 29 Palms Marine Base out in the distance. My dad spent two miserable weeks there. "It was the hottest place I'd ever been. I don't have fond memories of that place." We saw the sign but decided to skip it. :) |
Our next stop was Coyote Corner to get some showers. We were covered in two full days of desert grime so we happily paid $12 for showers. And they were glorious. Here's me with the keys. No line!
Clean and comfortable, we went to the Joshua Tree Visitors Center on the west side of the park. There we made our souvenir purchases. We hadn't come up with a collection idea yet, but the patch was very cool so we bought one. Perhaps we can hang a national parks tapestry in the Airstream. Or cover a pillow with the patches. I have some research to do on that. In the meantime, we will lovingly look at the Joshua Tree magnet on our home refrigerator. Elizabeth got a stargazing wheel that really came in handy at night, and Matthew got a coyote whom he named Josh. I bet every stuffed animal that comes out of that park is named Josh or Joshua.
We came back into the park through the west entrance. This is the most popular way in because it's the closest to LA. It was also the most scenic ride back to our camp. It's amazing how beautiful Joshua Tree makes the desert look. See for yourself.
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| It really is no wonder this is such a popular place for rock climbers. |
Meanwhile back at our camp, this is how the middle of the day goes....





When it was time for our second excursion of the day, we visited Ryan Ranch. It's some ruins from an old cattle ranch. The trailhead was at the Ryan Campground.
Our next stop was the Hall of Horrors. I hadn't heard of it, but there was a sign along the road in the park and after passing it quite a few times we wanted to check it out. The ranger at the visitors center said it was a cluster of rocks that has "hallways" you can walk through. It's obviously a great place for rock climbers, and the trail signs mark different passes. As we arrived, some climbers had just finished The Exorcist. Hmmm. Sounds like a nightmare; I bet that one's hard. Anyway, we just kept walking until Elizabeth said she wanted to climb some rocks. So she did.
And then she found this.
Pretty sure that was the Hall of Horrors. It wasn't even marked! Elizabeth gets an A for orienteering. The rest of the hike was just beautiful because it was early evening and the sun was beginning to get low.
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| We saw lots of these. Love them. |
On our last morning in the park, Matthew stole the camera and got some nice candid shots as we were packing up.
One of the most fun things to do on these trips is to meet new people and hear their stories. We saw this Heffalump the day before, and right before we were getting ready to leave I saw it around the corner from our site. Matthew was ecstatic! Joe and Stacey wander around in that awesome thing. They are the coolest and we found their blog when we got home last night. We are their newest fans.
Our last stop on our way out was the visitors center so the kids could officially earn their Junior Ranger badges. One more cool thing to collect at the national parks.
If you've made it this far, you are dedicated! This was one awesome trip, and it was the perfect way to begin our national parks adventure.We're already looking forward to the Grand Canyon in May, Sequoia/Kings Canyon in June, and Zion and Bryce Canyon in October.
We can't wait to get on the road again.